Tracking Down Air Leaks

Air leaks are one of the biggest saboteurs of your energy bill. They cause your heating and air conditioning units to work overtime. But, you can increase the efficient use of energy by tracking down and eliminating sources of air leaks in your home.

How to Check for Indoor Air Leaks

Close your unit as tightly as possible—shutting doors, windows, flues, anything that vents to the outside. (Leave inside doors open.) Turn on the exhaust fans in the kitchen and bathrooms. This pulls air out of the house or unit and draws outside air in through the leaks. A common way to identify air movements is to hold a lighted incense stick near a suspect area. The smallest movement of air will cause the smoke to move. Another method is to simply hold your damp hand near potential leak sites. Air movement will feel cool.

Where to Check for Air Leaks

Any place one surface joins another (even if it appears closed) is a potential place for air to move in or out of your home—for example, where floor and walls come together, such as around baseboards or carpet edges.

Small spaces don’t allow much air leakage individually, but collectively they can eat up a significant amount of energy. Check all spaces where any type of opening exists such as electrical outlets and switch plates, fireplace dampers, around pipes, attic hatches, mounted air conditioners and mail slots.
Also, be sure to check caulked edges. Don’t assume they’re still air tight. Caulk dries over time and shrinks. Another application might be needed.

Doors and windows are in a category of their own. If they rattle or if you can see daylight around them, they leak. Fortunately, they’re easy to fix with caulking or weather stripping.

Making the Fix

Weather stripping is the simplest and least expensive means to eliminate air leaks around doors. Foam insulation is a variation on caulking that is available as an aerosol spray. It’s well suited for filling large gaps like the holes where pipes or wires enter your home. (Use with caution, however; it expands significantly and can be unsightly if overdone.) For just about everything else, standard caulking is all you need. Once the job is done, test again to make sure you stopped the leak completely.

Food Safety During a Power Outage

Power failures can be one of the most annoying and disabling occurrences in a community. Whether caused by summer storms, power lines crippled by winter ice, equipment failure, an overloaded regional grid or an animal disrupting a power line, electrical outages can be costly and uncomfortable. Without forethought, they can sometimes even be dangerous.

Residents can face many hazards when a power failure occurs, usually without any warning. This includes losing refrigerated and frozen foods. Some food items can be salvaged, however, if you’re prepared.

In anticipation of a power failure:

• Have at least one or two coolers on hand, and at least one spare 5-pound bag of ice in the freezer.
• Know where to get bag, block or dry ice quickly when you need it, particularly if you anticipate a long-term outage. (Caution: Dry ice is made from carbon dioxide, so it requires safe handling. Never breathe in its vapors or touch it with your bare hands.) According to the Food Safety Branch of Kentucky’s Department of Health, a 50-pound block of dry ice will keep a tightly packed, 18-cubic-foot freezer cool for up to two days. 
• Have an instant food thermometer or appliance thermometer available to ensure your freezers, refrigerators and coolers are staying cool enough store food safely.
• Arrange the refrigerator and freezer efficiently. Frozen food will last longer in a full freezer, up to 48 hours if tightly packed. Refrigerated food will last longer—up to four hours—if there is room for air to circulate around items. 

When the electricity goes off:

• Avoid opening and closing the refrigerator unless absolutely necessary. 
• Cook and use perishable food before using canned food. 
• Check the temperature of refrigerated foods if the power is out for more than a few hours. Discard any food item than has been at 40° F or warmer for two or more hours. Exceptions include butter and margarine; hard cheeses like Parmesan and Romano; some condiments like mustard, peanut butter, soy sauce, olives and vinegar-based salad dressing; and fresh, uncooked fruits and vegetables.
• Check the temperature of frozen foods as well. While tightly packed freezer foods will stay frozen for many hours, some items that may have thawed can be refrozen if they still retain ice crystals or have remained at a temperature lower than 40°. Fruit and vegetable juices; breads, rolls and pie crusts; flour, cornmeal and nuts; meat and chicken; and prepared foods and casseroles can be refrozen safely if they have not been at 40° F or warmer for more than two hours.
• After the power comes back on, you may need to deodorize the refrigerator and freezer by washing surfaces with a solution of 2 tablespoons baking soda dissolved in a quart of warm water. Place an open box of baking soda inside the refrigerator to absorb any lingering odors.

Since the appearance and odor of a food item isn’t an accurate indication of its safety after a power outage, use the 40° rule-of-thumb. And when in doubt, discard the food.

While a power can go out any time, most power failures occur between mid-July and late September. But no matter when our community experiences an outage—and it inevitably will—knowing how to handle frozen and refrigerated foods can help us keep your food supplies safe until the lights come back on.